What is Kennel Cough?
Kennel Cough, also known as tracheobronchitis, is a HIGHLY contagious upper respiratory disease that occurs in canines. It is caused by Bordeteilosis, (the most common infectious agent it spreads from), Parainfluenza and Adenovirus agents which often transmit through the air, but can also spread via hands or clothing. The incubation period is usually 3~10 days and can last up to 3 weeks after first symptoms appear. Dogs with Kennel Cough are more susceptible to secondary diseases due to weakened immune systems. Kennel Cough can also be more serious problem for puppies and the geriatric dogs whose immune system may already be lower.
• Persistent Dry Hacking Cough
• Nasal Discharge
Generally the cough can be very annoying for the dog, but usually does not develop into anything more serious. In mild cases dogs often eat normally and remain active. In severe cases it can progress into loss of appetite, fever, pneumonia or lethargy.
There is no cure for kennel cough and it must run its course. Any canine displaying symptoms should see a veterinarian as soon as possible. Typically, mild cases are just treated with a week or two of rest. Often antibiotics can be prescribed to prevent secondary infections and cough suppressants may also be prescribed to reduce coughing. Home remedy treatments are NOT recommended.
Vaccinations are available for the bordetella bacterium. Dogs who are frequently boarded, visit dog daycare or exposed to large groups of dogs may benefit from the vaccine. Boarding, and day care facilities generally require proof of vaccination. The vaccine is available in oral, intranasal, and injectable forms. It is initially given in two doses that are 2~4 weeks apart, then a booster is given every 6 months to a year.
Vaccinations against parainfluenza and adenovirus type 2 (in combinatiin with other vaccinations) are also given routinely to help pre3vent kennel cough. Vaccinatiins are not always 100% effective as there are many different strains of he virus and the vaccination is made up from only 1 of them. Veterinarians also recommend the vaccinatioin 5~7 days before taking your dog to a pet care facility.
Courtesy of the 'Smoky Dog Lodge' located in Sevierville, TN
BUNDLING UP:Not every dog or cat is built for cold snowy weather. Walks should be adjusted to the temperature outside. The lower the temperature the shorterthe walk should be. Short-haired pets may need an extra layer of protection when outside. Long-haired pets may need an additional layer if the outsideis very cold. Cats and dogs are susceptible to frostbite and hypothermia, do NOT leave your pets outside for long periods of time.
PAWS: There are many pet-friendly alternatives for ice-melt but you should still protect your pet's paws from ice-melt and snow. This can be done with booties. However, if your dog is like many, and absolutely hates booties, use "Musher's Wax" to prevent paw pads from drying out and remember to routinely wipe snow and ice from their paws during your walks.
CARS: Antifreeze is incredibly TOXIC. IF you encounter any antifreeze be sure to wipe off your pets paws (and stomach if low to the ground) when coming inside in case they have walked through some. Outdoor and stray cats can hide in cars for warmth during the colder months. PLEASE check underneath your car and bang on the hood or honk the horn BEFORE starting the engine to encourage them to leave.
ROCK SALT: Use pet-friendly ice-melting products. If pets are exposed to rock salt, wipe off their paws, tummies and any other exposed areas. Booties are a good idea if your pet will allow.
KNOW YOU PETS LIMITS: Some breeds to well in cold weather but should still be kept inside when not on walks or outdoor breaks. Short haired breed should be outside ONLY briefly. If it's too cold for YOU it is probably too cold for your pet. Please keep your cat indoors, regardless of the season.
WATCH FOR SIGNS: When a dog or a cat's body temperature drops significantly they may shiver, become disoriented or have a slow heart and respiratory rate. Frostbite can occur on the tips of their ears or tail of any animal if left outside in the frigid temperatures.
On this page is a guide that helps provide the minimum requirements needed should an emergency arise. Also we have provided helpful hints to cover those times when it is NOT an emergency. We hope it proves useful to you.
TIPS for TRAVELING with your PET!
1) See your veterinarian: It is important to visit your vet to ensure ALL
shots are up to date and your baby has received the appropriate flea,
heartworm and tick repellent treatments.
2) Take along copies of your pet's health records: Rabies certificate and other
important certificates are typically required when flying or traveling
internationally. In the event your pet should become ill while on vacation a
copy of all vaccinations, drug regimes and any other medical information
could prove life saving.
3) Chipped, collared and leashed: Don't forget to have READABLE tags with
your latest contact information on your pet at ALL times. Your pet should be
on a leash when in an unfamiliar area not only for its protection but for those
around you. Don't forget to carry along a RECENT picture with a written
description of your pet. This along with an active and current chip could be
critical should your pet accidently get lost or stolen.
4) Car & Boat Safety: Seat belts and harnesses are now available for pets. Life
vests and preservers are also available for pets that will be on boats. Don't
forget that traveling can take any number of hours to get to ones destination
so please pack a bottle or two of fresh water and a collapsible bowl as well as
a sufficient supply of their favorite food (to avoid changes in your pet's diet).
Treats to break up the travel are also a welcomed delight.
5) Air Travel: Pets that are being flown to their destination must be placed in a
crate. To provide the best travel conditions for your baby, please make sure
the crate has room for them to lie down, stand up, sit, and circle around
COMFORTABLY. Don't forget to remove any leashes or objects that could
prove harmful. NEVER MUZZLE your pet while traveling!
6) PET-FRIENDLY accommodations: A growing number of vacation spots and
hotels are recognizing the value of being pet friendly and will welcome your
pet. However, they may have specific rules, restrictions or guidelines
regarding pets and they will expect you to follow them. Please find out all the
details before you make your reservation. Better to know now than when you
are checking in.
Here's Wishing you and your pet a safe and fun-filled trip!
IN an EMERGENCY and General Knowledge
Welcome to the Official - Paws For Friendship Inc. - Website
One of our Members will be happy to contact you within 24 hours. For urgent needs call us at: (866) 925-7297
Disaster Preparedness for HORSES
Horses require extra consideration when it comes to disaster planning so we hope the following topics will prove useful if or when that time comes.
Planning for the Disaster:
1) Permanently identify each horse by tattoo, microchip or photograph. Ensure your records include the horse's age, gender, breed, color and any other specific markings or characteristics that your animal has. Keep this information with all the other IMPORTANT papers.
2) Be sure your animal's Coggins tests, veterinary papers, identification photos and any other vital information (medical history, allergies, emergency telephone numbers and family members) are placed in a water tight container/envelope. Place this and any other important documents in an area that is easy to reach and remember so when the time comes to evacuate all is within each reach.
3) Ensure arrangements have been made for trailers and transportation should YOU not be able to or do not have such equipment. Be sure to have several people on the list should one prove unable to help when the time comes.
4) HALTERS at the ready. Each halter should have a luggage tag or other device on which the following information is placed: horses name, your name, physical address, email address and important telephone numbers. ANY other additional information you feel may be critical should also be noted.
1) It is important that your horses are comfortable and acquainted with being loaded into a trailer. During an emergency is NOT the time to get them acquainted with this process. IF THEY ARE NOT, then consider working with your animals by practicing the process of loading and unloading into a trailer long before the evacuation order is given. It will make things a whole lot easier for everyone.
2) WHERE are you going with your animals? It is best to have made arrangements with friends, relatives or commercial enterprises long before the crisis to ensure there will be room for your horses. IF you should find yourself short, then please contact the local animal care or control agency, agricultural extension agent, or local emergency authorities about shelters that may be available in your area.
IF you cannot EVACUATE with your horses:
1) Have a back-up PLAN in case it's impossible to take your horse(s) with you when you evacuate. Consider the various disasters and the varying needs for plans to these scenarios. IF the decision is made to let the horses free from the barn because of a wildfire, or fast moving and rising water, it will NOT be enough to just open the stall doors and let them out. IF time allows, please restrict their access to return to the stall or barn. Horses will return to where they are fed and cared for and may NOT flee if the option exists to return to a familiar barn or stall.
Share your evacuation plans with friends and neighbors:
1) Post detailed instructions in several places (barn office, tack room or the horse trailer and barn entrances. This will ensure emergency workers can see them in case you are not able to evacuate your horses yourself.
WHEN Disaster Strikes:
1) Don't leave your horse behind. A situation that isn't safe for you won't be safe for your equine companions either.
2) Evacuate Immediately. IF you wait until the last minute to evacuate, there may be limited options for you and your horses. In this case, your horses could be unattended for days without care, food or water.
3) Supplies. Prepare a basic first aid kit that is portable and easily accessible. Be sure to include enough water (12~20 gallons per day per horse), hay, feed and medications for several days for each horse.
As the old saying goes, "AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURE" by preparing in advance for the evacuation of your horse you will save a lot of time, money and heartache and just possibly your horses life.